Spearguns

Introduction

There are lots of different types to choose from, it is actually a complex and controversial subject :-). I personally have never used an airgun (CO₂ propulsion or pneumatic + hand pumped)) as I don't find those very sportsman and they can also have problems from what I have heard, I use spearguns with slings. Here is what I have compiled over the years:

Definitions

• Sling or Band: is the elastic rubber tube used to transmit energy to the spear, this is what causes the propulsion:
• Shaft: is the spear itself, the main body part if you want to be technical. Some shafts have the tip permanently attached and in some it is removable.
• Point or Tip: is the part at the front end of the spear, this is what will penetrate the flesh.
• Notches: are at the back end of the spear, this is where the sling's attach to the shaft.
• Slide Ring: is used in some types of spearguns/shafts, it is a ring that slides on the shaft to allow the spear to be tied to the speargun.
• Rail or Track: is used in certain spearguns, it is a rail along the barrel to guide the spear.
• Wishbone: is the part of the band that connects to the spear, it gets this name from its shape.
• Other terms are easier to understand so I will not list them here.

Main speargun types

• Eurogun: typically used in Europe, it has one band, no rail, typically a shaft with the tip attached, typically does not have a slide ring but instead is tied to the barrel directly at the back of the shaft, has the handle & trigger mechanism near the back of the barrel (like a rifle), is measured (length) along the barrel.
• American: typically used in the USA, often has a rail, typically has multiple bands, often has threaded shafts so you can change tips, often use a slide ring, the "real" American speargun has the handle, trigger close to the middle of the gun and the release mechanism in the rear of the gun, it is measure using the whole length.
• South African: typically used in South Africa and Australia, always has a rail, has multiple bands, not sure about the shaft tip,  the slide ring & the length measurement, has the handle and trigger mechanism like Euroguns.

Influences on a speargun's power

• Barrel length
• Sling/band thickness
• Number of bands
• Number of notches and their position (and on which one(s) you have loaded the slings)
• The presence or not of a roller
• The thickness of the shaft
• etc

Speargun length

In Europe a speargun is measured (length) along the barrel, the reason is that this is the useful length for the band's energy to be released. In the USA the speargun whole length is measured. I will describe only Eurogun lengths here. There are many different lengths, but the main/classic ones are (in cm): 55, 75, 85/90, 100/105, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160

• <55: very manoeuvrable, used in caves/holes/under rocks and in low visibility, easy to load, not very powerful (for smaller fish)
• 55: very manoeuvrable, used in caves/holes/under rocks and in low visibility, easy to load, not very powerful (for smaller/medium fish)
• 75: manoeuvrable, still useful in caves/under rocks or low/medium visibility, loading not easy but not hard, medium power, can still be used for smaller fish but usually you target medium fish and larger fish are possible.
• 85/90: less manoeuvrable, more powerful, for medium and bigger fish, becomes harder to load.
• 100/105: even less manoeuvrable but still manoeuvrable (if that makes sense, the limit in manoeuvrability IMO), powerful, bigger fish
• 110: not manoeuvrable, more powerful, for open waters mostly, for big fish, hardest to load
• 120-160: not manoeuvrable, very powerful, for open waters only, for big/huge fish, very hard to load

Speargun barrel materials

• Metal: hard/durable, cheap, heavy, rusts, does not float
• Aluminium: rather hard, affordable, rather light, resists better to corrosion, does not float (without an external buoyant material or air pocket), the most commonly used material
• Carbon: Light, hard, can float, expensive, corrosion resistant, if water gets in the fiber it must be replaced
• Titanium: Light, hard, can float, expensive, resists well to corrosion
• Synthetic Resins: Light, rather hard, can float, not too expensive, resists well to corrosion
• Wood: Rather light (outside of water, light inside of water due to its high buoyancy, rather hard but can warp with time, floats, expensive, a bit fragile due to the warping issue (must be really well taken care of and stored well), beautiful :-)
• Others...

Line setup

• Nothing/Freeshaft: you have no line at all, usually you also remove the flopper from the spear. This allows you to shoot several spears one after another to kill a fish but you have to aim better and the fish could get away. This is a specialty type of setup and not used so much, SCUBA divers often like it though.
• Standard: The spear is attached to the line which is attached to the speargun's head. The line has to be longer than needed so that there is no shock when the spear extends it. This setup means that you cannot go after bigger fish than you can handle as it is you against it, and it can breath under water and you can't... Here is a picture:
  
• Bungee: This is a variant of "nothing" but with a bungee in between the head of the speargun and the line. This allows for shorter lines (the line length is thus the amount needed until the arrow looses penetration force) since it absorbs the shock, this is the only difference:
  
• Inline setup: this is a variant of the above two, the spear is attached to the head of the gun (with or without a bungee) and the handle or butt of the gun is attached to a line which is attached to a buoy. This allows you to go after bigger fish without fearing to loose your gun as much:
  
  
  
  
• Breakaway setup: this is a safer variant of the inline and bungee setup, the spear is connected to the line which is connected to the special breakaway attachment which is connected to the buoy line which is in turn connected to the buoy. The special adapter is a bungee plus a third attach point or a shortened sling that is put through a loop and attached to the line. This allows the shooting line to not get in the way when the gun is used and the spear detaches itself from the gun once shot, so the fish is attached to the buoy and you keep the gun. This setup is essential if you go after big fish since the fish will fight your buoy and not you. Here is an example:
  
  
  
  
  
• Reel: it is used like a fishing pole real is, when you shoot the fish you can swim up and breath and then reel it in. This is also useful where you can use a buoy, like in kelp forests. But ultimately it is again you vs the fish so remember that. Also, it can be tiring to always reel in the spear if you shoot a lot, especially if you don't have the adrenalin of a hit ;-). Here is a picture:
  

Types of lines

• Nylon braided: cheep, not very strong, becomes too "fluid" once in the water
• Dyneema/Spectra: Braided synthetic material, stronger than steel (breakpoint) so very strong, expensive
• Mono: like a thick fishing line, usually used for the shooting line or for the whole line when hunting around oil rigs, etc. Strong, resistant against abrasions, you need sleeves (the double barrel type) and a crimper.

Mechanism to release the line

• None/clamp: simple and cheep, not great, the line is just clamped to the speargun and releases by shear force. Here is an example, the one on the left has the clamp (red part on the left side) and the one on the right has no clamp and no line release:
  
• Line Release System: the line is wrapped several times from head to release clip, once you shoot the line is release letting it unravel. This allows the line to be out of the way but can get tangled up is not done properly. All good spearguns have this, if you use a spool/reel you could live without this feature however. Here is an example:
  
  
  

Tracks/Rail

•  No track/rail: "Eurogun" standard, inexpensive, here is an example:
  
•  With track/rail: makes the spear travel more straight as it guides it and it creates a thing cushion of water between the rail and the spear as it travels along the barrel. I think this is the best type, here is an example:
  
•  With Enclosed Track (ETR): the track is enclosed, this is suppose to make it even more precise as it literally guides the spear (no horizontal or vertical movement). Some people believe it makes it slow down as the water cannot escape fast enough. The only opinion I have is that if your shaft bends even a little you have to stop hunting, since it will no longer fit correctly, unless you have a spare:
  

Speargun head

• Closed: the head has a hole where you have to put the spear though to load it. It has the advantage of being simple, the spear cannot fall out, but takes longer to load:
  
• Open: there is no hole, the spear just lays on the head. The loading is fast but it is more complicated to setup since you have to wrap the line over the spear so that it does not fall out:
  
• Open with clasps: supposed to be the best of both worlds, it is open for fast loading but has clasps to hold the spear in place, only Beuchat makes these as far as I know:
  

Sling/band types

• Euro slings: two separate bands with one end screwed to the wishbone and the other end screwed into the speargun head:
  
• Circular slings: a single longer band that has both ends connected to the wishbone; it is held on the speargun head by a slot cut into the head:
  

Sling/band measurements

This section is under construction, I need to add information concerning the measurement of bands (calculate power needed, etc). For pre-built bands that can be screwed on (Euro & Circular) for whom you need to measure existing bands (e.g. to replace them), you need to measure the following:

Sling/band types

• One band: the thickness and length determines the propulsion power, one band to replace if it breaks, one band to load, however this band having to be thick to give lots of power this makes it hard to load. This is the standard on Euroguns. You also regulate the power by loading different notches. Can be a Euro-sling or Circular sling:
  
• Multi-band: always exclusively the Circular bands, several bands are loaded, this is how you augment/regulate the power, along with the thickness of the bands, their length and the notches loaded on the shaft. Usually you have shafts with the same number of notches as you have slings (not less anyway). The bands are usually thinner than in mono-band guns which makes it easier to load but has the inconvenience that you must load several bands to get full power. It is also easier to replace this type of band since you are not limited by the brand:
  
• Roller gun: there is a roller on the head, the (usually) mono-band is loaded and then under the gun you load one or two bands. These bands are all connected to the main/top band; they are not released when you pull the trigger. This means that when the top band has finished releasing its power, the bottom band(s) release their's thus they pull the top band which effectively transfers the power, thus you gain a couple of cm in power. This allows a shorter gun for the same power output but has the inconvenience that you have to load several bands and manipulate the gun more. You can regulate the power like on a Eurogun (choosing the notches, usually the bands are special so not much choice in their thickness and length) and like a multi-band gun (by loading or not the bands under the gun, choosing which notch you load them on):
  

Wishbone

• Classic/normal/non-articulated wishbone: A metal cable bent. It is cheep but can be dangerous. The wishbone can be replaced if it is the screw-on type. You should replace it for safety reasons when you replace the bands. Here is an example:
  
• Articulated wishbone: a wishbone that is articulated, more stable on the spear but same safety issues. This is the standard wishbone on Euroguns. The wishbone can be replaced as it is always the screw-on type. You should replace it for safety reasons when you replace the bands. Here is an example:
  
• Dyneema/Spectra: A wishbone made of thick dyna, safest but wears out faster. Cannot be replaced independently from the band unless loops are installed in the bands as per the photo on the left and sheet knots are used (thanks for the correction miki). Here is an example:
  

Shaft notches

• Notched/Euro-notches: a notch is cut in the shaft, this allows it to glide well in the water but can bend/break at this point. Dyna wishbones will also wear out fast/break quickly on this type. The notches can break also, you must use this type with articulated wishbones. This is the type most commonly used with Euroguns, they look like this:
  
• Shark fin: Little fins welded on the shaft, can influence the trajectory some say. Used with dyna wishbones mostly, can be used with classic wishbones, not great to be used with articulated wishbones. They look like this:
  
  
  
  
• Knobs/Pins: like sharkfins but welded knobs/bars/pins with an angle. Mostly used with dyna wishbones, can be used with classic wishbones, not great to be used with articulated wishbones. They look like this:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Shaft material

• Steel: cheap, bends easily and retains bend, rusts, steal colored, rarely used.
• Stainless Steel: relatively cheap, bends and retains bend although less than standard steel, does not rust, chrome colored, most common, also known as disposable shafts. Here is an example:
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Hardened Spring (aka Rockwell) steel: Expensive (2-3x the price of SS), bends but less than the other types and springs back more, does not rust, goldish/brownish color, the best IMO. Often used in US spearguns and all high-end spearguns. Here is an example:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Shaft thickness

Determines the penetration power: thicker == more penetration power. Of course this means that the bands (and the gun itself) must be adapted to the shaft as a heavy shaft with light bands will not penetrate, for a target at the same distance, as well as a light shaft with light bands or a heavy shaft with heavy bands. A heavy spear once everything is adapted for it will have more of a inertia (punch) thus big fish can be hunted with it. The most common thicknesses are:

• 6mm-6.5mm: The light shafts, usually the standard on smaller/medium (non-bluewater hunting) guns up to 75cm, can break on bigger fish and does not have enough penetration power for big fish.
• 7mm: The standard heavier shaft, can be used for bluewater and non-bluewater hunting. I personally use this.
• 8mm: Heavier, only for bluewater hunting
• 9mm: The heaviest, only for bluewater hunting.

Shaft to line attachments

• The most common is a hole is drilled in the back of the shaft and the shooting line is attached to it. The line then goes to the head and depending on the head type it either goes through the hole or is wrapped around the shaft & head to keep the shaft from falling out. Euroguns usually have this setup and it is the favored all around as it is silent and aerodynamic; however it can get tangled. here is a picture:
  
  
  
  
• If you have shark fins, one of the last one has a hole in it where you can attache a line. This shares the advantages of the above but when it hits the end of the line it will flip the spear a bit. Here is a picture:
  
  
  
• The other method is to have a slide-ring. This method is used in the USA more than in Europe. It is also used in rollerguns I believe because it keeps it from tangling in the roller mechanism. The issue with these is that the ring makes a lot of sound when the shot is fire (sound travels faster in water than in air), it can break shark-fin notches and it can influence the trajectory of the spear, especially once it had slid down the shaft and hit a stopping point. Here is a picture:
  

Points/tips

I wrote an article concerning this, please have a look here.

Position of the Handle, trigger and release mechanism

• All in the back of the speargun: simpler technically, more natural (like a rifle), longer reach. This is how Euroguns are configured, here is an example:
  
• Handle and trigger in the middle of the barrel, release mechanism in the back: The idea is that you can control the horizontal angle by moving the back of the gun horizontally. The trigger mechanism being separated from the release mechanism means you need a cable thus is more fragile mechanically. This is how "real" American guns are configured. This is not a very common configuration in the rest of the world from what I have seen:
  

Traveling with a speargun by plane

Be aware certain countries do not allow spearguns even in checked luggage, even in transit (such as Singapore and Hong Kong).

• Using a special case: you must check it is separately, thus often pay extra. However makes your primary suitcase lighter since you can put other things in the case. I use a Sportube #2
• Having a "travel" speargun: Allows you to put it in your regular suitcase (checked luggage), means you save on having to pay for extra luggage but makes your suitcase heavier (and subject to search at customs). These types of spearguns are usually more expensive and depending on the make can be fragile. I have a JBL Travel Magnum and I am very happy with it, but it does limit your choice of spearguns and parts. Riffe also has a travel gun (euro-travel series).

Please see my dedicated post concerning this subject: Traveling with your gear

Security types by brand

The security should be one if one is present until the last moment you can keep it on. This is safer but be aware the noise could spook some fish.

• JBL: Metal, on the left side of the handle accessible with your thumb. The best type IMO.
• Cressi: Plastic, traverses the handle part above the thumb, accessible with your thumb (left side, to deactivate it) although not the best but still good.
• Riffe: Like JBL's. The best type IMO.
• C4: No security.
• Beuchat: on the top of the handle, centered, plastic.
• Mares: on the top of the handle, centered a bit on the right, plastic.
• Mako: Like Beuchat's.
• Seac sub: On the left, not bad, plastic.
• Omer: plastic, small, on he right side under the hand almost, the worst design IMO, might as well not have one...
• Sporasub: They use Omer's now.
• Spetton: on the left I think plastic.
• Imersion: On the left and on the right side, you rotate it. Not easy to use with gloves. Plastic.
• Demka: On the left, not bad, plastic.
• Esclapez: On the left, not bad, plastic.
• Rob Allen: No security.
• Teak Sea: No security.
• Guns of Marseille: No security.
• Pathos Sub: Plastic, traverses the handle part, accessible with your thumb (left side, to deactivate it) at thumb level. The best design I have seen for plastic safety mechanisms.
• Salvimar: Plastic, traverses the handle part above the thumb, accessible with your thumb (left side, to deactivate it) although not the best but still good.
• Many others...

Shark Safety

In parts with sharks it is recommended to not leave the fish in the water. Unless you have a boat this can be problematic in hot and/or sunny places. One rule is to never have the fish on you but rather attached to a float kept at a distance. In case you do hunt in shark infested waters I would also recommend the following (more info here in the shark section):

• Don't try to injure the shark unless it is of last resort, sharks are curious animals and will swim close to you to check you out, if they come too close, you can prod them with the metal tip (usually the contact with something metallic will make them less curious).
• You can have a metal spike attached to the gun's muzzle, some spearguns have this by default. This is useful because if the spear is not on the speargun and a shark shows up you have the spike to help keep the shark away. A good example of a shark safe gun is the Speardiver Carbon Elite Speargun:
  
• You can have powerheads for last resort if you get a shark that does not get the point, these are essentially aluminium cylinder that fire on the point of your speargun and have a bullet at the end. Here is a good example of one-use powerheads (Speardiver Quick Slip-on Powerhead).
  

I hope that this will be useful for someone, please let me know (comment) if it was. Don't hesitate to comment if I forgot something or wrote incorrect information.