Gear Maintenance

Introduction

Spearfishing gear is subject to salt, sand and other elements of nature, proper maintenance is needed if you want to keep it functioning optimally for a long time. One of the main two culprits to watch out for is salt and direct sunlight, it will kill some of your gear in a matter of weeks or months if you do not remove all traces of salt from your gear and keep it out of direct sunlight. 

The most important thing to do after after each time you use is to rinse your gear thoroughly with fresh water. This can be done with a garden hose, in the shower (using a removable shower head) or in the bathtub. If I am going out again next day I usually just rinse it real well with the hose/shower head and let it dry (out of the sunlight). If I will not use it for a while, I do as described above and then I fill the bathtub with lots of fresh water and put in all items that sink and let them soak well for several hours (changing the water at least once). It is important to make sure the gear is well dried before long storage.

I will go through the list of gear most spearfishermen have and share what I do to keep it in a good shape.

Speargun

The speargun is the most complex gear you own, it is also the most important item (you can get away with not having anything else if the need be). Spearguns can oxidize due to salt and air (or even simply the contact of some of the metals that they are made of (e.g. aluminium + stainless steel), the mechanisms can lock up due to oxidization or sand, wooden spearguns can warp, bands/slings can degrade, etc. As mentioned in the introduction the most important thing to do after a hunting session is done is to rinse it well. Special care must be given to the mechanisms (trigger, line release, reel), I try to inject as mush water inside it via the multiple openings as I can. If you put it in the bathtub make sure the spear is on the speargun so it sinks and I let it soak well for several hours. I also make sure I rinse in between where the slings are in contact with anything to remove anything that could help to degrade them during storage. Also important is to make sure it is thoroughly dried to reduce any oxidization. It is also a good idea to take the spears out of the mechanism for longer term storage. Once in a while (I do this every two or three years) you can clean/oil the trigger and line release mechanisms. If you are not comfortable taking apart your speargun then just inject some WD-40 (not too much!) inside the mechanism using the "straw"). Be very careful not to get any on the bands/slings as it eats/degrades rubber (think of what you learned in sex-ed about Vaseline and condoms, same issue!).

Slings/Bands

I have pretty much summed it up on these in the post above (speargun), but I would also add that sunlight is very bad for rubber. It is recommended to store them in a cool dry place out of light. Some people use silicon grease to keep them supple and others go as fare as putting them in a zip-lock bag (make sure there is not humidity inside) and store them in the refrigerator. Some say that the ideal temperature is between 10°C and 25°C and should be stable. Ozone is also bad for the rubber so watch out for this, ozone more prevalent in hot & sunny periods and in smog.

Shaft/Spear/Points

Cheap shafts & tips are made with "standard" stainless steel. This is great for oxidization but not so good for hardness (they deform/warp easily). The good ones are made of a different type of stainless steel, often 17-4PH hardened stainless steel (or something similar). This type of steel resembles SAE 304 in terms of corrosion resistance, which means it is not as "rust proof " as the cheaper stuff. A thin layer of oxidization can form on it but it should not corrode like non-stainless steal. To keep it rust free I do the following:

1. Rinse it well with fresh water
2. Dry it well
3. Put some WD-40 on a rag or paper towel and rub it well against the metal

The idea with step 4 is to deposit a thin layer of WD-40 on the metal to protect it. WD-40 also removes any oxidization that could have already started. When I get ready to use it I rub the metal with a clean rag or paper towel to remove it. As mentioned in the speargun section of this post I recommend storing the shaft off the speargun so any oxidization from either does not contaminate the other.

Reel

If you have a reel make sure you rinse it well. I like to let it soak in the tub so the salt leaves the mechanism and the line. I also inject water where there are small spaces. Let it dry thoroughly, this can take a while with braided line.

Knife

The knife, if not made from Titanium, can rust also. Some knives have a layer of Teflon on most of the blade to prevent oxidization but in some places such as the cutting edge or the region where the blade goes in the handle, rust can form. As with all the gear rinse and dry well, but also use some silicon grease to protect the blade when you are not using it.

Mask

The mask sounds like a no-maintenance item and it mostly is, you can just rinse it well. I like to clean the inside with some toothpaste as mentioned in my "Mask fogging up?" post. I usually let the toothpaste dry so it protects the inside from any oils and when I want to use it I just let it soak in the water a bit and shake the toothpaste out.

Neoprene (wetsuit, socks, gloves, etc)

The wetsuit requires special care too. I rinse it very well and let it dry out of sunlight. UV light degrades rubbers and Neoprene is essentially rubber with nitrogen bubbles in it. It is important to dry it inside and out; if you do not mold could settle in and this is very hard to remove (and it stinks!). I have read that you can wash a wetsuit if it starts to smell (mine never have). Some people just use a little laundry detergent (the kind you use to hand wash wool/silk) mixed with water in a tub. Just rub the neoprene well, let it soak some, rinse well and dry. I have even read some people sick it in the washing machine on the delicate cycle (the one for wool) and let it run (using the same type of laundry detergent). I am not sure I would try, I guess it depends on if the first method failed, but if you do try make sure the temperature and the spin is low (it should be if you have a dedicated wool cycle). Never, I repeat, never use the drying machine! To store a wetsuit is is best to lay it out flat in a cool dry place out of light. You could also try one of those wetsuit hangers but since apnea wetsuits are more elastic than scuba wesuits you could get some deformation from the pull of gravity. If you have an open-cell wetsuit, try to keep the rubber from touching itself to prevent it from sticking. You could for example stuff it with cloth.

The rest of the gear

The rest of the gear is essentially minimal maintenance, just rinse & dry well and store in a dry dark place.

Conclusion

If you rinse your gear well after every use and store it correctly it should last you much longer than if you do not. As with everything is is a question of inverting time to care about your investment but sometimes circumstances make it harder to do it well. In this case just stick to the minimal maintenance which is: rinse & dry well and keep out of sunlight.

As with all my posts, if you have questions or comments please don't hesitate to write below in the comments section!

Review: Sporasub One 50 Reel

Introduction

I was looking for a reel to put on my Beuchat Marlin Revolution but I didn't like the Beuchat reels. I wanted a vertical reel that had:

• some sort of drag/lock mechanism
• was reversible or had the winder on the right side when the gun was not flipped over
• had a low profile

I ended up choosing the Omer One 50 reel (black version) after searching and reading a lot or reviews:

Generally spearfishing reels are a joke, they are extremely simple and do not have many technological advances. I found that this one had some interesting features not found in other reels. I had to buy an adapter to make it fit my speargun. Here is a front view:

The 'Mimic' version

Build

As stated above spearfishing reels are very simple compared to line fishing reels. In the regard the reel is simple and has a build quality equivalent to other reels, I cannot say I was impressed but I cannot say it is bad since all reels would be bad in this case. It has a low profile as I wanted and the winding leaver is out of the way. I will talk more about that below.

Winding lever

This is one feature that is a bit innovative, the lever is stored inside the inner tube thus out of the way until you need it:

It then pops out so you can use it, it is made of metal. This does mean that to use it you have to do an extra step, some people may not like that. Also it feels a bit flimsy, this may be psychological. It is used like a line fishing winder once it is out. Also it can be reversed, although I could not find anywhere where on Omer's website on how to do this and I was afraid to force anything. Eventually a Speardiver forum user (Don Paul) posted some pictures on how to do this (original post available here):

I must mention to be very careful when doing this, the spring's "arm" broke on me even though I was careful. I got it replaced for free by Omer after explaining how it happened. Usually you can go through a local Omer representative (i.e. a store) but I was in a landlocked country when this happened and there was not a single store that carried spearfishing supplies, this is why Omer handled it directly for me. I have to say their support was swift and efficient, I can recommend them as a brand because on this, at least based on my experience. Usually people don't reverse the winding leaver unless they are left handed. I really didn't want to have to flip over my speargun and I wanted to be able to fight a fish from above a bit like a line fisher would. The line goes from the reel to the speargun's head through a small metal ring.

Line drag/lock mechanism

I am not too sure about this one. It has a ring around the winder that allows you to regulate the tightness (see all the above pictures); this allows you to lock it if needed or add drag. it also has a flap that presses against the wound line (hence the famous spring) that allows you to leave your reel with no drag/unlocked but still keeps the line tight enough:

The 'Mimic' version

This works great on my speargun since it has a special open head that grips the spear and should work great on closed heads but I am not sure if it puts enough pressure on the line that it would work on a fully open head. I can see how it could unwind and the shooting line would slacken and come off the line release and cause tangling. I am not sure the spear could fall out bit if it could that would be dangerous. I think some reels actually untighten as they spool but this one does not. I believe they untighten so that you tighten them to prevent the above issue and once the fish darts off it untighten to give it line. I originally suspected that I was using it wrong or maybe it is my reversing the handle that causes this, but I think that this reel never had this behavior because that it has the other mechanisms I spoke of earlier (even though I am not sure they suffice). Which is correct, which is better? I am not sure, being rather new to reels (I have 2) I can only speak with my limited experience. I have a reel that untightens when spooled, it works ok, I have used it only once so I cannot really judge it yet, I believe I was not impressed with the speed or ease at which it starts to untighten but I don't really remember. The Omer, as it works with me, is loose when hunting and once shot is stays loose but I can tighten it manually to augment the drag which can be useful when fighting a fish, I guess the other reel I have would make this more difficult since it would always need to be re-tightened. I would be interested on having more input on all of this from someone with more reel experience.

Conclusion

I think I am happy with this reel, so far it does what I think it should do (see my above discussion). I was impressed with the support Omer gave me, so I would consider other Omer products. I cannot yet say I recommend this product as I am not 100% sure of how it should work and if it does work correctly. As stated above somewhere I am not sure it would work well with a real open head speargun but I may just not be using it correctly.